Ian McKewan's Sweet Tooth has one of those standout food moments that bookcooker is all about. The novel, which I must admit I thought would be a little sexier 007 than it was, is about Serena Frome, a smart, pretty, wispy Cambridge girl who finds her herself working for MI5 in early 1970's London. This is not a path Serena would have found on her own - she is the daughter of a bishop and a maths major with a suppressed passion for literature and bad taste in men. It is through an affair with a much older and worldly professor that she finds herself working in the British domestic spy agency during the gloomy days of the cold war, British economic depression and the threat of the IRA. It is the older professor that also introduces her to this earthy, sexy dish - forest mushrooms with creamy polenta. Serena and Tony Canning, a professor at Cambridge were Serena is a student, spend secret weekends together at a cottage in the country. Tony teaches Serena about world affairs and they drink wine and good food that Tony cooks. This dish was particularly intriguing to me (I love polenta!) and for Serena it was a symbol of the kind of sophisticated world she thought Tony was opening up for her. Of course, since this is a spy novel, Tony was not what he seemed, he cruelly dumped Serena but she went to work for MI5 in London anyway. Rather than the exciting and sexy experience you would expect, Serena's work and life was dreary and demeaning - until she was recruited into the "Sweet Tooth" project...
I must admit, there is no pesto mentioned in Jess Walter's wonderful novel Beautiful Ruins. The novel takes place both on Ligurian coast in the 1960's and in modern day Los Angeles. Obviously, there is not much food in the Los Angeles part, but more disappointingly (only for purposes of this blog), there also is not much food in the Italy portions of the book. The only mention of food that really stuck with me was the description of an unappetizing fish head soup. Don't get me wrong, I love dishes made with "trash" ingredients, and I love a good culinary challenge, but fish head soup was not doing it for me. So I googled around a bit, and it seemed like, in the middle of summer, a classic Ligurian pesto was in order. More about the simple pesto and the book after the jump.
Isn't that little strawberry on top of this shortcake just the cutest thing you have ever seen? Every May and June, loads of big juicy California strawberries flood the market at lower than normal prices. I usually stock up on these. And then in late June, in New England, the local strawberries debut. They are small, cute, fragrant, photogenic and really really expensive. I always get sticker shock and resist for a bit, then I just break down and buy the 7 dollar little basket. I shake my head at the receipt, consider myself a sucker, and then I bite into one, and all my negative feelings about the price slip away. The local strawberries are worth every penny, not only are they picture perfect, they taste so much better than the gargantuan ones shipped in - juicy, sweet and pure strawberry flavor. You have to eat them quickly though, they get mushy quickly. The perfect thing to do with strawberries that are a tad past their prime (besides making jam), is strawberry shortcake. I like to go the biscuit route with my shortcake, and these were so tender that they would have fallen apart if I tried to cut them in half. So instead I made a little strawberry and cherry compote, by sauteing the fruit for just a few minutes with a little sugar and a little orange liqueur, and plopped the biscuit right on top. The perfect way to enjoy June fruit.
I have totally abandoned cocktails lately, and now that I finally have a
quieter weekend, settling in with a classic brunch cocktail seemed like
a good way to spend some downtime. I love a good Bloody Mary and often
order virgin versions of them at brunch. Why virgin you ask? Day
drinking is definitely not my strong suit, and a shot of vodka at 11AM
will likely knock me out for the rest of the day. To me, the best part of a Bloody Mary is the horseradish that is used to spice the drink up. Horseradish is one of my favorite condiments and there are not a lot of
opportunities to eat copious amounts of it -
pretty much only with oysters, or if you are Jewish like me, as a condiment
to the once a year gefilte fish at Passover. The version I put together above is pretty much classic - no wackiness here with pickled beets or tomatillos - just a simple tomato juice, celery salt, and horseradish concoction.
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